Wednesday, 22 January 2014

Wanting for winter




I'd like to say my lack of posts the last couple months has been as a result of being distracted by endless adventures Skiing and climbing, day after day of fresh snow and alpinesque ice... but alas it couldn't be further from the truth.
 By Christmas last year i had double figures of days on skis or great winter mountain days, by the time this Christmas rolled around i had three days of walking in poor winter conditions and a grand total of zero days on skis. Working five days a week in Aviemore has meant when conditions have been good on those rare occasions, i have never made it out to enjoy them.

 After starting to despair, i have been glad of some sort of semblance of winter taking it's hold again the last few weeks.


Huge rime build up on the weather station



 A Thursday day off saw me skinning up the piste on Cairngorm to join Gordon and Andy in the hunt for ski able gullies in the loch Avon basin. Poor visibility and wind a wind scoured plateau saw us with skis on our backs, more than on our feet, but none the less a great day with good pals in the mountains was had.


 
 
 A last minute visit by my good friend Rhys had us up on to the Glen Feshie hills of Mullach Clach a Bhlair, Carn Ban Mor and Sgorr Gaoith. A late start gave us the opportunity to walk out into the night and get some night-nav practise under the belt.

 

 My house mate Kirk had been desperately searching for a climbing partner for the Saturday and luckily for both of us i managed to gain an extra day off work in order to head into to Coire an Sneachda for some excellent Scottish mixed climbing.


 

 Conditions were excellent and lots of firm neve had built up on many of the routes, giving easy, but unprotected climbing. We opted to warm up on a route known to both of us, "hidden chimney direct", the bottom pitch of which was banked out and wielded to much easier climbing than it's grade would suggest. Topping out in good time we opted for the harder route of "the messenger" next.




Leading the first pitch was excellent and ice helped my progress up the slab, despite wanting for gear.
Kirk lead the excellent second pitch and we reached the top in two rope lengths. With conditions so good it would have been rude not to climb a third route and so we walked over to "Patey's route", which was well stepped out and again gave easy, yet enjoyable neve all the way to the top.


 Timing was perfect and as we got to the base of the crag it was just getting dark and a we walked out with head torches on.
 After weeks of wanting for winter, it was fantastic to get out and enjoy the mountains once again.






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