Head in the clouds

Over the last couple weeks I've had a few days working on Ben Nevis for Atlas Mountaineering guiding clients up the pony track, in what is still, quite full on winter conditions.
There's been a lot of chat on forums and amongst instructors and providers about the lingering snow, and with "three peak challenge" and charity walk season approaching, not to mention Easter holidays, there is a big concern for the safety of folk venturing up ill equipped.

Last Friday i spent the day with two clients, Andy and Adam, who had flown up to tackle the Ben from Dorset. Both fit and we made excellent progress, handy, as they had a flight to catch back home in the evening!

Our crampons were on by the time we'd reached red burn and the snow was hard in the cold morning air. With most of the zig-zags covered in snow still we opted for a direct ascent, giving an additional challenge; not to mention work out!

Visibility was low on the plateau and the snow cover thick, covering all marker cairns. All of a sudden from the murk emerged a white orb. It was the heavily rimed summit shelter with the summit cairn almost completely buried! An inexperienced party with low navigation skill and poor visibility could have easily walked right past without knowing its existence.

 A quick bite and we descended back down, this time with the sun warming the snow, we took crampons off relatively early and made it back with time to spare.

Yesterday i was once again joined by two great clients, Tom and Esme, who were on a whistle stop tour of the British mountain ranges it seemed, having just come up from the lake district en route from the south.

With sunglasses on, a warm sun and great visibility we made use of summer like conditions in the glens and made it to halfway lochan in good time. After practicing some movement skills on a handy snow patch, we strapped on our spikes to cross the burn. The snow had retreated hugely and ascending the zig-zags was a mixed affair with snow less stretches interspersed with areas of firm snow.

 The hill was a lot busier than the week before and there was a mix of well equipped and poorly equipped folk out and about, some of whom we saw descending having turned back once they realized that it would be unwise to continue given the snow cover.

Again the snow had softened for our descent, and once again we were treated to amazing views out the surrounding area and as far as Mull and Skye.

A pleasant reminder that winter is not always the cruel mistress it has been for the majority of the year!

One final word of warning is there are still HUGE cornices above a lot of the north face. Remember to look up!

 

One Wild Winter

"Effect of wind on you: Any movement on higher areas will be tortuous."

This seems to be the tagline for winter 2014.
From the beginning of this winter a shifting Jet stream has brought strong winds, normally from the South, and huge dumps of snow.
 The SAIS report has regularly shown areas of considerable or high avalanche risk, with huge cornices building on every edge, coire rim and steepening imaginable.
 The high winds and unstable snow made getting quality days out in the hills very difficult, and planning days included plans from A to Z and changing those plans at the drop of a hat.
It's been a real lesson in Scottish winter conditions this year and the importance of being dynamic when planning days out. Having some local knowledge can be an indispensable tool.
 Despite the tough conditions there's been some fantastic adventures to be had and once again the winter has been an incredible experience shared with some amazing people.

It's not been a great season for photos, but here are some of my favourite:

Good times in Torridon

 I've met some great people since moving to Scotland a couple years a go and it's always a privilege to share some of my favourite places with them and enjoy the mountains together. Torridon features heavily in my blog posts and it's unique landscape and rugged beauty keeps me going back for adventure after adventure. My good friends Sarah and Rachael had never experience Torridon before so when Rachael came up for a winter skills course it was a great opportunity for me to introduce them both to an area i love so much.

 An early start from Aviemore saw us heading along the road and with the forecast looking promising, the two days we had set aside for our north west adventure was shaping up nicely. Our first day we opted for the ever beautiful Beinn Eighe.
 Freezing level was high and we reached Coire Mhic Fhearcair without hitting the snow line, however when we did (just below stone fall gully) it was hard neve, requiring crampons and ice axe immediately.

Stunning views were our reward and our day was highlighted with a golden eagle sighting as we ate a snack on the top of Spidean Coire nan Clach.

 That night we celebrated Rachael's birthday in Kinlochewe with a delicious meal and a good choice of whiskey.

 The following morning and another early start and we were setting off up Liathach. With it's steep flanks and rising from sea level to Munro height in minimal distance, Liathach (meaning the grey one) is a truly unique mountain.

 

 Our traverse was long and enjoyable, despite some soft snow crossing the pinnacles making it difficult in places.

Descending back to the car is always tough on the knees in Torridon, but a small price to pay to enjoy the beauty of the region.

Wanting for winter

I'd like to say my lack of posts the last couple months has been as a result of being distracted by endless adventures Skiing and climbing, day after day of fresh snow and alpinesque ice... but alas it couldn't be further from the truth.
 By Christmas last year i had double figures of days on skis or great winter mountain days, by the time this Christmas rolled around i had three days of walking in poor winter conditions and a grand total of zero days on skis. Working five days a week in Aviemore has meant when conditions have been good on those rare occasions, i have never made it out to enjoy them.

 After starting to despair, i have been glad of some sort of semblance of winter taking it's hold again the last few weeks.

Huge rime build up on the weather station

 A Thursday day off saw me skinning up the piste on Cairngorm to join Gordon and Andy in the hunt for ski able gullies in the loch Avon basin. Poor visibility and wind a wind scoured plateau saw us with skis on our backs, more than on our feet, but none the less a great day with good pals in the mountains was had.

 

 

 A last minute visit by my good friend Rhys had us up on to the Glen Feshie hills of Mullach Clach a Bhlair, Carn Ban Mor and Sgorr Gaoith. A late start gave us the opportunity to walk out into the night and get some night-nav practise under the belt.

 

 My house mate Kirk had been desperately searching for a climbing partner for the Saturday and luckily for both of us i managed to gain an extra day off work in order to head into to Coire an Sneachda for some excellent Scottish mixed climbing.

 

 Conditions were excellent and lots of firm neve had built up on many of the routes, giving easy, but unprotected climbing. We opted to warm up on a route known to both of us, "hidden chimney direct", the bottom pitch of which was banked out and wielded to much easier climbing than it's grade would suggest. Topping out in good time we opted for the harder route of "the messenger" next.

Leading the first pitch was excellent and ice helped my progress up the slab, despite wanting for gear.
Kirk lead the excellent second pitch and we reached the top in two rope lengths. With conditions so good it would have been rude not to climb a third route and so we walked over to "Patey's route", which was well stepped out and again gave easy, yet enjoyable neve all the way to the top.

 Timing was perfect and as we got to the base of the crag it was just getting dark and a we walked out with head torches on.
 After weeks of wanting for winter, it was fantastic to get out and enjoy the mountains once again.