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| Spot the climber! - Rob on the sharp end |
I've had some awesome days out last week in fantastic conditions (generally) in the highlands.
The fluctuating temperatures which has brought great river levels had helped form fantastic ice on many of the crags up here in the Highlands, particularly on the west coast, where there is a larger concentration of pure ice routes than the east. Conditions had been great on Beinn Udlaidh (a relatively low crag in Glen Orchy) with plenty of sought after routes getting climbed, as well as great conditions on many of the north face routes on Ben Nevis.
With lots of folk flocking to these areas after a lean start to the winter, when i caught up with Ibrahim (who heads up the outdoor department for Gordonstouns school), we opted to head somewhere a little more remote.
Beinn Dearg lies just south of Ullapool, north of a group of the hills known as the Fannaichs, and is poular in summer and winter with walkers. But it's real attraction in winter time are the ice falls that form in the corries, several of which are found in the classic book "Cold Climbs" and are "must-ticks" for any avid winter climber.
It was an early start to drive up north and there was a lot more snow on the ground than expected. This caused an issue.
Normally in summer, and latter parts of winter, a bike can be used to access the coire by a pleasurable ride along good forestry track. Unfortunately the snow meant we could only go a short way on bikes before resorting to walking.
The snow was deep. Much of time we sunk up to knee, or even waist height, in the drifts and it took us a long time to reach the base of the crags. Our original plan had been to take a stab at a route called "Jewel in the crown", but with time running away we opted to climb the classic "Emerald gully".
Definitely a "proper" Scottish winter climbing adventure!
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| Matt on lead on Hadrians wall direct |
A couple days later i managed to head west with my friend Joris and meet up with some friends who were staying in Fort William, to get some days climbing on the Ben.
Our first day saw us up early, with Rob and Matt heading in to climb the classic grade V "Hadrians wall direct", whilst Joris and I managed to get the neighboring "point five gully" to ourselves!
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| Rob on the steep second pitch of Hadrians Wall Direct |
Point five gully is arguably the most famous gully ice climb in the world, originally climbed with siege-like tactics over six days, it saw it's first one-day ascent by Robin Smith and Jimmy Marshall in 1960, as part of a week of ground breaking ascents on the north face. In a time before modern ice climbing tools and tactics (including front point crampons!) their achievements were at another level of mountaineering prowess.
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| Me leading on the steep second pitch |
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| Joris on the "rogue" pitch |
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| Look, no hands! |
Great conditions on the route gave bomber axe placements and we topped out in stunning sunshine and incredible views. We were even treated to a fly-by by rescue 137.
The next day we headed in to the north face again, this time with "hadrians wall direct" being our target. We were followed up the route by several other teams, but another early start saw us first on the route.
Excellent climbing for the whole route, with the first three pitches giving the most technical, the middle of which was the deceptively steep (but short lived) crux, while the rest of the route was easier angled snow ice. With one final technical pitch right at the end it's definitely a full value route.
After two big days out, our final day west was spent on Aonach Mor. Catching the gondola the majority of the was up the mountain helped save our legs for what we planned to be a another big day climbing.
Conditions had deteriorated, and even whilst on route things had softened up considerably so we decided to climb a mixed line called "Hammerhead Pillar".
Joris linked the first two pitches together and i took up the reigns on the crux pitch to take us to the top.
The first few moves were hard with gear low down to the slop below. I reached up and found a good hook with my right axe, and reaching around the arete planted my left axe in what i thought was frozen turf. Giving the placements a test i was satisfied and committed more weight to them as i moved up.
"Did that just move?"
But it was too late.
My left axe ripped out the not-so-frozen turf and i barn-doored off the route falling down toward the snow slope below.
Unfortunately before the weight came on to my gear and ropes i was halted by my buttocks landing on a rock beneath, resulting in a lot of pain (and a massive shiner on my arse).
After sitting in the snow for a minute or two i swapped with Joris who finished the route (hero) and we abseiled off to avoid the cornice.
The walk down with a bruised bottom wasn't pleasant, but i am thankful that i wasn't injured anymore seriously than bruising on my behind and some wounded pride!
